A couple of my chickens checking out a batch of partially finished compost in my Earth Machine compost bin. |
Gardening
season is here and what better way to add organic material to the soil - for
healthier veggies, flowers, shrubs, and trees - than with compost. You can buy
compost at nurseries and garden centers, but why not make it yourself? For the
most part, the ingredients can be found right in your own kitchen and yard.
Several
years ago, I participated in a Master Composter training program held by the
Mojave Desert & Mountain Recycling Authority/Master Composters. Upon
completion of the program, I became a certified Master Composter. Included in
the experience was a promise to pass along what I learned to other residents of
the High Desert and beyond.
Composting
is nature's way of recycling plant materials into a product that can be used to
enrich the soil and nourish plants. By adding compost, sandy soils retain water
better, heavy soils are loosened and drainage is improved, and plant health is
improved. Composting reduces the amount of waste discarded into the trash, thus
sending less waste to landfills.
Composting
is partly art and partly science. Compost piles are actually microbial farms -
bacteria are the most numerous decomposers and are the first to break down
plant tissues. Later, fungi, protozoans, centipedes, millipedes, beetles,
earthworms and others join in to do their part. Anything that grows is
potential food for these decomposers. They use carbon from leaves and woody
waste, and nitrogen from items like grass, weeds, manures, and fruit and
vegetable waste from the kitchen.
Materials
containing higher carbon content are considered "browns," while
materials with higher nitrogen content are considered "greens."
Recipes for the best compost can vary, but a good rule-of-thumb is a mix of
50-percent greens and 50-percent browns by volume.
Green
materials include fresh weeds and plants, green prunings, grass clippings,
horse, cow, chicken and rabbit manures, and fruit and vegetable trimmings.
Brown
materials include fallen leaves, dry weeds and grass, chopped prunings and
twigs, wood chips, hay or straw, and cold wood ashes.
Other
materials that can be composted include egg shells, old flower bouquets, coffee
grounds and filters, tea bags, paper towels and napkins.
Materials
that should not be used in composting include oleander bushes, tamarisk/salt
cedar, invasive weeds, meat, fish, dairy products, bones, fats, bread, large
pieces of wood, pressure-treated wood, barbecue ashes, dog or cat wastes, and materials with spines or thorns such as
rose branches and cactus.
The
more surface area the microorganisms have to work on, the faster the materials
will decompose, so it's a good idea to run large pieces of waste such as
branches through a chipping or shredding process before adding them to the
compost pile. The microbes also need moisture and air. The best moisture level
for the microbes and for faster composting should be that of a wrung out
sponge. It is usually necessary to occasionally add water to the compost pile.
It should also be turned periodically to get more air into the center. About
once a week, I add water to my compost bins. I turn it with a pitch fork
whenever I add new materials, which is at least a couple times a week. Most of
the contents I add are kitchen waste, chicken manure, wood shavings, straw,
leaves and pine needles.
Large
compost piles will insulate themselves and hold the heat given off by the
microbes. The pile's center is warmer than its edges. The ideal compost pile is
about 3-feet by 3-feet by 3-feet. Smaller piles have trouble retaining heat, while
larger piles don't allow enough air into the center. Of course these
proportions are only important for making compost quickly. Slower composting
requires no exact proportions.
There
are a number of ways to compost - some take less time and effort, some take
more. The main things to consider are how much time you have to spend managing
the pile, how much green waste your yard or kitchen generates, and how quickly
you want the finished product. Two
common methods include holding units and turning units. Each method has its own
set of advantages and disadvantages.
Holding
units are the "no fuss" method where you add as you go. You can build
or purchase a bin approximately three-feet square, or just start a pile. Fill
it up as materials become available - when it's full, start another pile -
water and turn occasionally. I use two vented black bins, called Earth
Machines, which have a removable lid on the top, and a door at the bottom for
removing the finished product at the bottom of the pile. I also use two
"Compost Orbs," which I purchased because they were supposed to be
easy to roll them to where ever I needed them. They roll well when empty, or
full of dry leaves, but not when they are full of heavy moist compost. I like
my Earth Machines better. There are many models available, check them out and
see what works best for you.
Turning
units are the "active pile" method. These are usually a series of
three or more units that allow garden wastes to be turned on a regular
schedule. These are more appropriate for gardeners with a larger volume of
waste, or for those who want to produce compost faster. Each bin should be
about one cubic yard in size. Fill one bin by layering green materials with
brown. Water the piles as you add layers. The pile will probably heat up - when
it cools after a few days, turn the pile into an empty bin and water again,
continue until the pile no longer heats up and materials are decomposed.
Now
you know the basics of composting - an environmentally friendly method for
dealing with all that yard and kitchen waste! If you are in the High
Desert/Victor Valley area of SoCal, visit the Mojave Desert & Mountain
Recycling Authority website at http://www.urecycle.org or call 1-888-URECYCLE
(888-873-2925) for more information or to find out when their next free class
will be offered You can also contact the Master Composter Coordinator, Don Woo,
at MC_Coordinator@dnbvisions.com
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