Starting Vegetable Seeds Indoors

Spring is just around the corner, which means in mid to late April I will be planting the majority of my summer vegetable garden. I'll be planting a few cool season veggies sooner, but April, and into early May, will be the time that all of my warm-season veggies get planted in the ground. This is when the day- and night-time temperatures have gotten warmer allowing the soil temperature to get warmer, which is essential for the success of warm-season veggies.

Many veggies can be planted as transplants and are available at planting time at nurseries, garden centers and from catalogs. Sometimes I end up buying transplants, but I really prefer to get a head start by planting seeds for some of my crops indoors. Planting seeds indoors instead of buying transplants allows for a much bigger variety to choose from. Seed racks at the store have many varieties, and if you check out the various catalogs, the choices seem nearly endless.

The particular types of plants that I like to start indoors include tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and squashes.

This year I am planting several varieties of heirloom tomatoes from www.rareseeds.com and www.territorialseed.com, which include Brandywine, Green Zebra, Yellow Pear, Roma, and Beefsteak.

Tomatoes should be planted indoors about six to 10 weeks before you plan to put them outdoors in the garden, so for a mid- to late-April planting time, now is the time to get those seeds going indoors.

Tomatoes need a soil temperature between 70 and 90 degrees in order to germinate. If you keep your house warmer than 70 degrees, a heating pad is not necessary, but if you are like me and keep your home in the low 60s during the winter months, then something to keep the soil warmer is in order. I use a heating pad specifically designed for starting seeds. I no longer have the box (or brand name) because I have been using it for many years, but I have seen them available at garden centers and in catalogs. Once the seeds have germinated, the heating pad can be removed, but try to maintain a daytime temp of at least 70 degrees and a somewhat cooler nighttime temp.

Tomato seeds should be planted about 1/4-inch deep and kept moist, but not soggy. They generally germinate in six to 14 days – sometimes sooner – depending on the variety.

I am also planting yellow, orange and red varieties of sweet bell peppers, plus Anaheim chilies and two kinds of Jalapenos - Early Jalapeno and Purple Jalapeno.

Peppers, which are in the same family as tomatoes, have nearly the same requirements, except that they should be started eight to 10 weeks before you plan to put them outdoors, and they take a bit longer to germinate - eight to 25 days.

Eggplants are also related to tomatoes. The only planting difference is that they should be started about six weeks before the outdoors planting time. They need a soil temperature of around 80 degrees to germinate, and will do so in about five to 17 days.

I always plant a number of squash varieties including Zucchini, Crookneck, Golden Zucchini, Benning's Green Tint Scallop, Tromboncino, and Butternut.

Squashes prefer a soil temperature of between 65 and 85 degrees for germination. The seeds should be planted 1- to 1 1/2-inches deep. Expect germination to happen in five to 10 days.

Other varieties of warm-season veggies can also be started indoors, which include corn, melons, pumpkins, and okra.

The soil for germinating seeds and growing seedlings should have a fine texture that allows for good aeration and water retention. There are commercially produced seedling soil mixes available. I went to OSH and found they carried two different brands, one made by Miracle Gro, and another by Black Gold, which is formulated for organic gardening. There are numerous brands depending on where you shop.

You will also need containers/pots to hold the soil and the new seedlings. There are many to choose from including plastic, peat, and coir pots, plus an assortment of seeding trays. I like to use containers in the 2- to-3-inch size range. Smaller ones can be used, but transplanting into a larger container will be required a few weeks before they can be placed outdoors.

Seedlings need plenty of light to keep them strong and healthy. Place them in a windowsill with bright light, or place them under grow lights or a fluorescent lamp. When using grows lights or a fluorescent lamp, the plants need to be close enough to the light so they don't get leggy, but not so close that they burn from the extra heat.

Water should be applied daily to keep the seeds, and seedlings, moist but not soggy.

Diluted fertilizer such as fish emulsion should be applied every week or so once the seeds have germinated.

About a week or so before you are ready to plant the seedlings in the garden, start transitioning them to outdoor conditions by placing them in a sheltered area outdoors to harden off. Bring the seedlings in at night or cover them to protect from potential frost.

Seed Catalogs

The garden and seed catalogs started arriving in my mailbox a few weeks ago. In the past couple of weeks I have received several of them, and will certainly be getting many more in the upcoming days and weeks. There are many garden chores that will be coming up in the next few weeks, but right now, I have the time to peruse the catalogs and plan my veggie garden for this spring and choose the veggie varieties that I want to grow.

Of course there are seeds available at local garden centers and nurseries, and they are starting to get a better selection than they used to have. Those selections are starting to include more heirloom varieties. For the most part, I prefer heirlooms because they tend to taste better. Many of the newer hybrids have been bred for keeping/storage qualities, disease resistance, and quantity, but very often don't have the exceptional taste of the old-fashioned heirlooms.

This year's garden, much like last year’s, is going to have lots of heirloom varieties that I ordered from the Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Company and Territorial Seed Company catalogs. I ordered so many seeds last year that I only ordered a couple of selections this year and plan to use up the leftover seeds from last year (the seeds have been stored in my wine refrigerator and should be fine). Some seeds will be directly sowed into the garden beds, and some will be seeded indoors and transplanted to the garden sometime in April.

In addition to selecting the seeds I want to plant, I also decided to put in some perennial fruits and vegetables last year. Many of the catalogs offer a great selection of plants in containers or as bare roots depending on the species. My perennial selections included yellow raspberries, June-bearing and ever-bearing strawberries, blueberries, rhubarb, figs, and asparagus.

I receive many different catalogs and have not tried all of them, but I do have some favorites, which include Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds and Territorial Seed Company (the photos show last year’s catalogs). My most recent catalogs include the following:

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds (www.rareseeds.com) claims to be the world's largest seed catalog and features over 1,500 varieties of rare, non-GMO seeds with beautiful photographs and tasty recipes throughout.

Territorial Seed Company (www.territorialseed.com) offers a great selection of vegetable plants and seeds, many organic selections, some unusual varieties, and a plethora of handy tools, supplies, etc.

Seeds of Change (www.seedsofchange.com) features a large selection of certified organic vegetable, flower and herb seeds.

Pinetree Garden Seeds & Accessories (www.superseeds.com) includes offerings of seeds with non-GMO and heirloom designations, plus symbols to identify sun/shade preferences.

The Cook's Garden seeds & plants for gourmet gardeners (www.cooksgarden.com) features gourmet varieties of vegetables, herbs, fruit, plus kitchen and gardening supplies.

John Scheepers Kitchen Garden Seeds (www.kitchengardenseeds.com), which includes a nice selection of gourmet and heirloom veggies, flowers and herbs.

Gurney's (www.gurneys.com) has a vast selection of seeds and more, plus a 50-percent off coupon on the cover of the current catalog (expires 2/12/14).

Burpee (www.burpee.com) includes a nice array of vegetable, flower and herb seeds and plants.

Gardeners Supply Company (www.gardeners.com) has a great selection of unique supplies, tools, garden art, and more for use in the garden and in the house.

Botanical Interests (www.botanicalinterests.com) includes non-GMO, certified organic, heirlooms and untreated seed choices.

Totally Tomatoes (www.totallytomatoes.com) offers a huge selection of tomato seeds including the hard-to-find, heirlooms, giants, hybrids, cherries, open-pollinated, plus an impressive offering of peppers from the very mild to the hot and spicy and everything in between.

Irish Eyes Garden Seeds (www.irisheyesgardenseeds.com) specializes in organic seed potatoes, organic garlic, and organic early season vegetable seeds.

Tomato Seeds n Such (www.SeedsNSuch.com) offers a huge selection of tomato seeds and growing supplies.

Stark Bros. (www.starkbros.com) features all kinds of fruits including berries, grapes, hardy kiwis, peaches, cherries, apples, nuts, and more.

Vermont Bean Seed Company (www.vermontbean.com) has a huge selection of bean seeds -bush beans, pole beans, shell beans, runner beans, soybeans, dry beans and more.

In addition to the above catalogs, the following website offers links to over 100 heirloom seed suppliers - http://www.off-grid.info/food-independence/heirloom-seed-suppliers.html

Hopefully this list can help get you started on figuring out and ordering what you want to grow in your vegetable garden this year.

Blueberries

Baby Blueberries

Most of my adult life I have always had some kind of garden, even if it was just a tomato plant on an apartment balcony. Over the years, my gardens have become bigger, and with a lot more variety. I am a huge fan of organic produce, but not a huge fan of the high prices of organic food. With the drought in California, there is no doubt that the prices of all produce, and food in general, will rise even higher. For me, the cost of watering my fruits and veggies is less than the cost of buying organic produce at the store, plus I know it is absolutely fresh. There is the initial cost of planting beds and such, but afterwards the costs of producing your own fruits and veggies goes way down if water-conserving irrigation methods are used.

Among the many food items I grow, blueberries are among my favorites. Blueberries are a Native American fruit produced on a shrub. The leaves are green in spring and summer and a fiery red in the fall. They get clusters of bell-shaped flowers in spring that give way to sweet, tasty, cancer-fighting berries in the summer.

I started growing blueberries a few years ago with a couple bushes from Home Depot and a couple more online. Those bushes have grown to about five feet high and have provided me with tasty summertime fruit. I wanted even more, so last year I ordered three more bushes online. Although blueberries are self-fertile, meaning they don't need a pollenizer to produce fruit, adding other varieties for cross-pollination can help increase yields.

If you choose to grow blueberries in California’s High Desert, make sure that whatever variety you pick will grow in USDA zone 8 or Sunset zones 10 or 11. If you live elsewhere, match up the hardiness of the plant with the zone that it will be planted in. When checking out the various offerings online, I noticed that there were a few varieties that work well in my climate zone, but even more that don't. I ordered my new plants from www.Gurneys.com. The variety I chose is called 'Elizabeth', which prefers USDA climate zones 4-9. Elizabeth produces enormous berries with a mellow-sweet flavor that is a favorite of leading chefs according to Gurneys' description. The bushes should grow to about six feet, and produce berries from mid-July through late summer.

The High Desert's natural soil is alkaline, and blueberries need an acidic soil. A lot of amendments, such as peat moss, compost, and sulfur, can be added to the native soil to help create the desired pH range of 4 to 6.5 depending on the variety of blueberry. I find it much easier to grow them in large containers or raised beds with a quality soil mix.

 I find my blueberries tend to prefer a little shade during the hot summer afternoons. In containers, they can be moved them from place to place, but if you prefer to make them part of the landscape, choose a spot that offers a little filtered afternoon shade and some wind protection.

Blueberries need well drained, but moist soil. If growing in containers, make sure there are drainage holes in the bottom. Irrigation is best done with a drip system, soaker hose or hand watering, making sure to thoroughly wet the root zone without making it soggy.

In the early spring, blueberries should be fertilized. I fertilize mine with Blueberries Alive from www.gardensalive.com, which contains all of the necessary nutrients specific for blueberries. There are plenty of fertilizers available in stores and online, which are formulated for blueberries and other acid-loving plants.

Growing Asparagus

 Asparagus crowns before planting.

I will post a photo of them growing

as soon as they start their spring growth.

Over the past few years I have been adding to my vegetable and fruit gardens to get more variety and include some perennial selections. Last year, one of the many additions was an asparagus bed. It will take a couple of years before I can harvest a good-sized crop, but hopefully worth the effort -- I can hardly wait to see what happens in the next couple of months.

What do you need to plant a bed of asparagus? First, you need an asparagus-dedicated area that must be completely free of weeds and grasses because domestic varieties of asparagus will not tolerate competition for space and nutrients. Second, you should provide deep rich soil with plenty of organic matter such as compost. Nice deep raised beds are perfect for asparagus. Third, you should purchase good quality Asparagus crowns such as Jersey Knight hybrid, Jersey Supreme Hybrid, or other all-male asparagus varieties.

Modern all-male varieties of asparagus do not develop seeds and are able to put all of their energy into developing the spears instead. These newer varieties are also more resistant to diseases such as fusarium and asparagus rust. Early spring is the time to get asparagus crowns. I have noticed that many are available online, but some of the specialty varieties tend to sell out quickly.

To plant asparagus crowns, dig a trench about a foot deep and wide. At the bottom of the trench, shovel in some compost and all-purpose organic fertilizer. Adding a little rock phosphate is also a good idea since it promotes strong root growth. Next, place little mounds of soil in the trench about 18 inches apart (remember bare-root planting). Set an asparagus crown over the top of each mound and spread the roots out around the mound. The top of the crown should be about six inched below the soil surface. Back fill the trench with soil until the tops of the crowns a just covered and water it well. As the shoots begin to appear, add more soil until the trenches are filled back level with the soil surface. The crown should eventually end up approximately six inches below the soil surface.

To help with keeping weeds from getting into the bed, add a good layer of mulch such as shredded leaves or straw. If you do start getting weeds, carefully remove them making sure to not disturb the asparagus roots.

Asparagus was originally grown in swamps and other wet areas, so keeping the soil moist is important for good production. Using a soaker hose or drip irrigation is perfect for keeping the root zone moist. Consistent watering is especially important for the first three to five years.

To get the best production from your asparagus bed, only pick a few of the spears from each plant the first year, letting the rest grow into four- to six-foot high ferny foliage. The following year, harvest spears for about a three-week period and let the rest become foliage. After about three years, spears can be harvested for about a four to six week time frame and then let the rest grow. The asparagus plants need some of the ferny growth in order to develop the strong roots and energy reserves they need to produce a nice-sized crop the following season.

Spears should be harvested when they are five-to seven-inches high and before the tips begin to loosen. Once the tips loosen, the spears will become tough and fibrous. To harvest spears, cut or snap them off just above the soil level. Leaving a stub causes no harm to the plant. Once the bed is well established, harvesting can continue until the bed yields only skinny spears that are less than a half-inch in diameter.

When fall arrives, the fronds will begin turning yellow. At this time, it's generally best to cut the fronds about an inch above ground level and dispose of them to the trash or compost pile. This helps keep pests, such as the asparagus beetle, from over-wintering. It will also make sure your bed is neat and ready to go next spring.

Attracting Hummingbirds

An assortment of hummingbird-attracting plants that bloom

at varying times spring through fall near my patio

include star jasmine, autumn sage, lavender, trumpet vine,
honeysuckle and butterfly bush.

 In the coming months, my yard will become a busy place, abuzz with hummingbirds, which are to attracted to the area by a number of flowering, nectar-bearing shrubs, trees and perennials, plus a couple of sugar-nectar feeders. In past seasons, I have seen at least 15 to 20 hummingbirds in the yard all at once, and am looking forward to seeing them again. Most of the activity happens at first light, and again as the sun begins to set. Now, while the weather is keeping us inside more, is a good time to plan a hummingbird garden and be ready to plant your selections in the spring, which is just around the corner.

 There are six species of hummingbird seen here in SoCal's High Desert: Anna’s Hummingbird, Costa’s Hummingbird, Black-chinned Hummingbird, Calliope Hummingbird, Allen’s Hummingbird and Rufous Hummingbird. I have seen most of these in the yard in most months of the year except for the coldest parts of winter. An exception is the Rufous hummingbird, which is typically seen here in or around April as it migrates toward Alaska from Mexico.

 Hummingbird habitats should include areas of full sun, partial shade and full shade. This is good for the hummers as well as giving the ability to grow a variety of interesting plants. The habitats should also have various levels of vegetation to include trees, shrubs, flowers, and grassy areas (I tend to avoid the lower levels because of a population of feral cats), which gives the little birds a choice of where to feed and where to perch. The bloom times of the flowers should vary throughout the growing season. Flower nectar not only attracts the hummingbirds, it also attracts small insects, which make up a substantial part of a hummingbirds diet. Water should always be available. Hummingbirds drink their water as they sip nectar from the flowers, but they also need water to bathe in. This water can come from drops on leaves, birdbaths, sprinklers, misters, etc.

 Adding hummingbird feeders to the area seems to bring even more hummers to the area. You can purchase hummingbird feeders most anywhere, and in a number of styles to fit your landscape and budget. Hummingbird nectar can be purchased, but I prefer to make it myself and avoid the red dye, which isn’t necessary. It’s a good idea to have at least two feeders out of sight of each other to help cut down on the number of squabbles between hummingbirds. The sugar nectar should be replaced every three or four days (if the hummingbirds haven’t polished it off) since it ferments, especially in the summer heat. Make sure to thoroughly wash the feeders with soap and hot water before refilling them with fresh nectar. To reduce the occurrence of ants feeding on the nectar, applying some Vaseline along the hanging wire seems to do the trick.

There are many plants available for attracting hummingbirds, and I prefer to use plants that are more drought-resistant to help conserve water. These plants include California natives and non-natives that can survive the climate extremes of the High Desert. These plants require relatively low amounts of water, can handle full sun, or can live in the shade of other plants depending on the specific species. This selection of plants also provides nearly year-round flowers if planted in combination – Coral bells, petunias, manzanita, butterfly bush, trumpet vine, fairy duster, little leaf palo verde, Mexican palo verde, mimosa, desert willow, ocotillo, red yucca, bladder pod, chuparosa, red-hot poker, English lavender, monkey flower, beard tongue/penstemon, blue sage, autumn sage, California fuchsia and pincushion flower, just to name a few.

Don’t limit yourself to this list, which is only intended to get you started. Experiment and try out other plants as well. A good rule of thumb is to choose good nectar producing plants that offer tubular or trumpet-shaped flowers. They say red or yellow flowers are best, but I find it doesn’t really matter what the color is as long as they provide nectar.

Hummingbird Trivia

 • Hummingbirds are found only in the Western Hemisphere

• There are 116 Genera; 338 Species

• Most species are found near the Equator

• The smallest is Calypte helena or Cuban Bee Hummingbird

• The largest is Patagona gigas or Giant Hummingbird

• Hummingbirds can live up to 12 years; usually they live 3 to 5 years in the wild

• They can be found as far north as Alaska and as far south as Tierra del Fuego (southern tip of South America).

• A 4-gram hummingbird has a metabolic rate of 1,400 calories per kilogram – if humans had this high a metabolic rate, a 170 person would have to eat twice their weight in food each day, would have a temperature of 750 degrees, and would consume 155,000 calories per day.

• In an average hummingbird day (12 hours and 52 minutes) they expend 90 calories for perching, 3,810 calories for catching insects, 2,460 calories foraging for nectar, and 300 calories for territorial aggression.

• Hummingbirds must eat as often as every 5 minutes unless they are sleeping.

• Hummingbirds lick nectar at a rate of 13 licks per second.

• About 60 percent of a hummingbird’s diet comes from soft-bodied insects such as fruit flies, gnats, mosquitoes, aphids and spiders.

Hummingbird Nectar Recipe

4 parts water

1 part sugar (not honey)

 Stir together in pot and bring to a boil. Let boil for a minute or two. Let cool. Clean and refill feeders as necessary.

It's Bare Root Planting Time

Bare Root Blackberry Plant

Here it is, January, and this means it is bare root planting season. Generally speaking, bare-root plants are available in late winter through early spring in most nurseries, garden centers and mail-order companies. Many plant varieties are available bare root — fruit and shade trees, flowering shrubs, roses, grapes, cane fruits and strawberries.

Among the benefits of bare-root plants are that they tend to cost significantly less, and establish quicker than their containerized counterparts. One of the reasons for their quicker establishment is that when you plant bare-root plants, you generally backfill the hole with soil that was dug from the hole. This means that the roots grow in only one type of soil. When you put a containerized plant in the ground, there are two types of soils — that from the container and that from the ground. This usually creates layers with a difference in textures coming in contact with each other. When this occurs, water doesn’t penetrate the rooting area evenly.

When purchasing bare-root plants, look for plants with clean, evenly colored bark, strong stems, and firm, well-formed, healthy-looking roots. Avoid plants that have leafed out, unusual swellings other than the graft union, suspicious holes, and slimy or withered roots. Of course, seeing the roots may be impossible on plants with plastic wrappers on them. Keep your receipt and return the plant to the store if you find any of these root conditions once you have opened the package.

Bare-root plants should be planted as soon as possible after purchasing. If  you must delay planting, temporarily plant them in a trench with potting soil or sand on the shady side of your house and keep the roots moist, but not soggy. 

What ever you do, don’t let the roots dry out. Before planting, make sure to remove and discard any saw dust/wood shavings that the plant may have been packaged in, soak the roots in water for 30 minutes to four hours, and then trim off any broken or damaged roots back to healthy tissue.

When preparing the hole for bare-root plants, make a firm mound of soil in the bottom of the hole.  Then spread the roots over the mound, which helps to eliminate air pockets at the center of the roots. Position the plant to the same level it was in the growing field. Hold the plant upright as you backfill the soil, making sure to firm the soil as you go. When backfilling is almost done, adding water helps to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets. Finish filling the hole with soil, then water again. Water once or twice a week, but don’t over-water while the plant is still dormant because soggy soil may inhibit new root growth, or cause existing roots to rot. When the growing season begins, form a well from soil around the planting site. Water when the soil becomes dry at a depth of two inches.

Another thing to consider when choosing bare-root, or any other fruit tree, is whether a pollinator is needed. In most cases, the label on the plant will tell you if the plant is self-pollinating/fertile or if it needs a pollinator. If it needs a pollinator, suggested varieties are usually on the label. If you have any doubts, ask a knowledgeable sales person. Common fruits that need pollinators include almonds, pears, apples, plums and cherries.

Dormant Oil Spray

Here we are with another thing to do in the garden! Who said there is nothing garden-wise to do during the winter months? It is nearing the time for dormant oil spray, which is also known as horticultural oil, superior oil and natural oil depending on the formulation and brand. Those plants especially in need of dormant oil spray include fruit trees and vines, and deciduous trees and shrubs – especially those prone to certain insect issues.

Dormant oil is considered an ecologically friendly way to manage garden insect pests and consequently, some diseases. Many available oil products are made from mineral oil, but there are others made from vegetable oils such as cottonseed, canola, or soybean. These oils are usually mixed with some kind of emulsifying agent, which allows it to be mixed with water and used as a spray.

Dormant oil, used at a time when the plants are dormant or resting, is a good way to reduce pest numbers during a season where pollinators are not present. Insect pests such as aphids, mites, scales, leafhoppers, mealybugs, thrips, whiteflies, caterpillar eggs, and others tend to overwinter in the various cracks and crevices of the plant’s trunk and branches. Dormant oils work by suffocating the pests by blocking the spiracles through which the insects breathe. The oils can also disrupt the metabolism of insect eggs and the ability of some insects to feed. Many insects such as aphids vector diseases, so by controlling the aphids, some diseases may also be controlled.

Dormant oils should be applied just before the leaf and/or flower buds show signs of swelling or breaking open. You don’t want to spray too early or the insects won’t be active and breathing.

Dormant oils should not be applied in freezing temperatures or when the temperature is over 100 degrees F. During freezing temperatures, the oils don’t hold together well and coverage becomes uneven. If the plants are drought-stressed, they can be more susceptible to damage from the oil. The oils should also not be sprayed on windy days or when it is raining. Some lighter versions of these oils can be used in the summer months, but extra care needs to be taken to not burn the foliage. Some species of plants, including redbud, smoketree and spruce, are sensitive to dormant oils and are usually listed on the product’s label.

Dormant oils are fairly safe and are not poisons, but are still considered pesticides and should always be used according to the label’s instructions. Use only when absolutely necessary as it can kill both good bugs and bad bugs. It is considered safe around humans and pets because it has no toxic residue.

Tips for Pruning

Lateral Buds on a Pear Tree Branch

Winter is a great time for pruning many species of plants. There are a number of reasons for pruning plants — producing more or better flowers, developing or maintaining a desired shape or appearance, reestablishing balance between roots and branches, training young plants, rejuvenating older or neglected plants, removing dead or diseased wood, and repairing or removing damaged wood.

The pruning tools available are varied and run from really cheap to very expensive. In my opinion you get what you pay for, so a good approach is to buy the best quality tools that you can afford. Some of the quality brands that are readily available include Corona, Fiskars, and Felco to name a few.

Maintenance of tools is very important for good pruning and the longevity of the tools. When sharpening your pruners, use a file, not a stone, and maintain the original beveled angle. Have a professional sharpen your saws.

It is important to clean your pruning tools after each use. Wipe the tools with an oily cloth – there are some products made for cleaning tools such as Corona’s CLP. Use linseed oil on wooden handles to help keep them in tip-top shape. Use a solvent to remove sap. If pruning is being done to remove diseased branches, soak the tools in a solution of nine parts water to one part bleach between each cut. Keep in mind that the bleach can be corrosive to the tools so make sure to lubricate the tool(s) afterward.

It is always a good idea to have a certified arborist come in to do big pruning jobs such as trees, or anything near power lines. Also, don’t forget safety gear such as leather gloves and goggles.

Before pruning a plant, it is important to know how it grows. Trees and shrubs grow each year from the ends of branches (terminal buds) and the side branches (lateral buds). The terminal buds determine the direction and rate of growth. Lateral buds form branches and twigs that fill in the framework of the major branches. Dormant buds are less obvious and only grow when injury occurs to the terminal or lateral buds. A key to good pruning is learning how to take advantage of the lateral and dormant buds to redirect or rejuvenate plants.

Normally, terminal buds grow faster than lateral buds because of a chemical they produce to retard the lateral growth. This is really strong in young trees and less so in shrubs. Cutting away the terminal bud allows the lateral buds to start growing more aggressively.

When making pruning cuts, the rule is to prune back to a branch or bud and don’t leave a stub (or hat rack), which will die back and cause decay or disease, not to mention being unsightly. Pruning cuts should be no more than a quarter-inch above a bud or side branch. Pruning cut angles should be at 45 degrees and tilted in the direction the bud is pointing. Plants all have buds facing inward and outward. It is best to cut to a bud that is facing outward, which results in the plant having an attractive outward growth rather than making a tangled mess by growing inward.

Plants that should be pruned in winter (late January, February and into March) include fruit trees, certain roses, broad-leafed evergreens, most trees, vines and some flowering plants.

There are generally three accepted systems for pruning fruit trees – central leader, open center and modified leader.

Apples and pears should be trained with a central leader, which forms strong side branches and one main trunk. Remove some branches growing from the trunk to maintain open space between limbs. Also, thin the secondary branches growing from these limbs in order to allow sunlight and air to reach the center of the tree. Eventually, you might want to switch apples to the modified leader method as it tends to be easier and is close to the way they want to grow naturally.

Fruits that should utilize the open center or vase method include quinces, cherries, crabapples, plums, peaches, nectarines and apricots. This system eliminates the central leader and allows plenty of light and air into the tree’s center, but makes for weaker branches so it is not recommended for apples or pears. Try to avoid having all of the branches arise from nearly the same point.

Many fruits such as pears, apples, plums and cherries produce their fruit on stubby growths called spurs. These spurs should not be eliminated or you will not get fruit, however thinning them is recommended.

When planting young shade trees all you need to do is trim off some of the twiggy growth that won’t be a part of the tree’s framework of branches, and twigs that are dead or broken.

Mature shade trees should only need maintenance pruning to remove dead or damaged wood or perhaps a little thinning to allow air and sunlight into the crown. Always cut limbs back to a live branch or main trunk. Cuts should be made just outside (one-quarter of an inch or so) of the branch collar (usually an obvious swelling or wrinkled area at the base of the branch). If you are trimming a large branch, use a three-cut method to reduce tearing of the bark.

Shrubs should only be pruned for maintenance. Occasionally a shrub may get too tall or broad and may need to be cut back. If it’s a flowering shrub, you need to know if it flowers on old wood or new wood. If it blooms on old wood, you want to prune it right after it flowers – examples include lilac and forsythia. If it blooms on new wood, winter is a good time to prune – examples include butterfly bush and crape myrtle.

Broadleaf evergreens, such as oleander, olive, cotoneaster, privet, euonymus and Pyracantha generally need very little pruning and are often better off if you leave them alone. The only pruning should be to remove dead, diseased or damaged wood whenever it occurs, and prune back branches that get too long.

Vines should be pruned to keep them within their bounds. If you want them to stay compact, prune terminal growth during the growing season. If you want them to ramble, cut to the base all but three or four of the strongest branches. Most flowering vines bloom on last year’s wood so avoid pruning in winter or early spring or you won’t get any flowers.

Most roses bloom in late spring, a little during the summer and again in the fall depending on location. If you are pruning a newly planted rose from a container, you should only need to prune away broken or damaged growth. If it is a bare root, you will need to prune away broken or mangle root tips and twiggy growth from the top of the plant.

For maintenance pruning of roses, begin by removing dead, diseased or damaged canes. Next, prune out branches that rub together, and crossing growth in the center of the plant. A general rule of thumb is that when pruning is done, the remaining skeleton should be a vase shape (or you should be able set a small bucket inside the framework). On roses three years old or more, you should prune away about one-third of the oldest growth, then cut one- and two-year-old canes back to the height you want to maintain.