Gardening tips for fall

It's autumn - finally - my favorite time of the year. The intense heat from the summer is beginning to fade away, afternoons on the back porch are peaceful and comfortable, some of the plants are beginning to show their fall color changes, and some of the vegetable garden crops start producing again after surviving the summer sizzle. Another aspect of fall is that it is time for a few landscape and garden chores to get everything ready for winter.

Fall is the best time in the High Desert climate to install new plantings or transplant old ones. The weather is still warm enough where it is comfortable to work in, and the plants will have all of winter and spring to establish root systems that will allow them to withstand the heat of next summer.

It's also time to plant or divide spring-flowering bulbs. There's a vast array of selections in nurseries, garden centers and catalogs. Purchase bulbs that are firm, not mushy, moldy or shriveled. Instructions for planting them are usually right on the package.

Do you have a lawn? I did have a small lawn, but it looks like it did not survive the watering restrictions. If you do still have a lawn, there's plenty of work to do here. If your lawn is a cool-season grass such as fescue or bluegrass, fall is the time to add winterizing fertilizer. There are many brands to choose from. Fertilizing will help keep your lawn greener throughout most of the winter months, and make it more beautiful and lush in the spring. If you have a warm-season grass such as Bermuda or Zoysia, letting it go dormant for the winter is recommended - however, if you want to maintain a green turf throughout much of the winter, these warm season grasses can be over-seeded with annual rye or fescue. Aerating the lawn after a summer of compacting it with playing and mowing is a good idea. Aerating the lawn is a way to break through the thatch layer that may develop and allows water, air and nutrients to get deeper into the root system. Aerators for large lawns can be rented, or a lawn care company can do the job for you. For smaller lawns, a hand aerating tool can be purchased at most any garden center. When you do the final mowing of the year, mow it a little taller than normal - this will encourage deeper rooting, and leave the clippings on the lawn as a mulch to protect it from the winter chill.

Autumn is also the time to sow wildflower seeds for a flush of color in the spring. Wild flower seeds may be purchased at nurseries, but for a great blend of seeds prepared especially for the High Desert area, check with the Mojave Desert Resource Conservation District - (760) 843-6882.

Another great idea is to put a good three- to four-inch layer of mulch in your planting beds, which will help keep root systems warmer through the upcoming cold weather.

Don't forget to reduce irrigation frequency, and make sure that your irrigation system is in good shape. Reduce the risk of creating dangerous icy spots on sidewalks, driveways and streets by making sure that the water is going to the desired plants and not running off to other areas. This is also a good idea for staying in compliance with the state water restrictions due to the ongoing drought.

It's almost time to plant veggies for fall and winter harvest

The cooler temperatures of fall are just a few weeks away and along with it are some new vegetable gardening opportunities. Many people don't know vegetable gardening can also be done in the fall.

Fall gardening is a real possibility, but it involves growing different plants than those grown for summer gardens. Soon, it will be that time of the year when some of our summer-grown veggies - tomatoes, squash, beans, corn, and peppers - have seen better days and it will be time to start cleaning up the garden and preparing for next spring. Some of the early summer garden plants are long gone, but the space may still be available. Why not use this available space and grow vegetables that are perfect for fall planting – those that typically don't do well during the summer's extreme heat.

Check out your favorite garden center or nursery for vegetable transplants, which will probably be your best bet for getting them established and closer to maturity before the wintery frost arrives. Planting seeds also works (which is what I am planting), but they need a little more time, so it is best to get started now. The idea is to get the plants as close to maturity as possible before it gets too cold. Once it gets really cold, they will stop growing. To extend the growing season and offer more protection, consider using a cold frame, greenhouse, row covers or planting in containers that can be moved into warmer areas at night.

Typical vegetables that are successful for end-of-summer/early fall planting include lettuce, bok choy, Swiss chard, radicchio, kale, turnips, broccoli, carrots, beets, peas, cauliflower, radishes, collards, spinach, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, parsnips and onions. These same vegetables also work well planted in late winter or early spring, where they can be harvested before planting the warm-season crops of summer.

I have seeds left from last year, which I will be using that includes many of the above mentioned veggies – all heirloom varieties. Plants like carrots and parsnips can overwinter in the garden and get sweeter as the temperatures get colder.

Prepare the soil just as you do for a summer garden - loosen it with a shovel or rototiller or whatever else you have that can do the job. Remove as many rocks as you can. Then, add lots of organic materials such as compost to a depth of nine to 12 inches (especially important for root crops such as carrots, beets, parsnips and turnips). Avoid adding ingredients like wood shavings unless they are very well composted. Fertilizers or nutrient amendments are a good idea - organic products being the healthier choice for the environment. If you are just extending the season from your summer garden, refresh the soil a bit with some compost – homemade or purchased – and possibly some quality fertilizers to replace what the summer crops used up. Root crops could benefit from the addition of some bone meal as well.

‘Now that your soil is ready, it’s time to plant the transplants or seeds, whichever you decide to do. Transplants should be planted so the soil level is at the top of the root ball, but not covering any part of the stem. Press the soil firmly around the root ball, being careful not to damage the baby plants. For seeds, follow the package directions, which is especially important for seed depth. If you don't have package directions to follow, a good rule-of-thumb is to plant the seed twice as deep as it is wide - a quarter-inch seed should be buried about half an inch deep. If the seeds are planted too deeply, the seedlings may rot and never make it to the soil surface.

Water everything well and keep the soil moist but not soggy while the seeds germinate and begin to establish roots. I water a couple times a day during the time when the seeds are in the germination process, then I water more deeply each morning once the seedlings begin to develop a nice-sized root system. Plenty of organic material in the soil helps ensure that the essential moisture is retained and not just draining out. As temperatures cool, you may be able to water less frequently.

There are several sources for seeds and other garden products. You can get them at our local nurseries and garden centers, but for a much wider selection, there are numerous catalogs available online. Among them are the following:

-    http://www.xmarks.com/site/www.williamrubel.com/Trescony/TRtresconyseeds.html - offers links to numerous seed catalog websites including many that feature heirloom and organic varieties.

-    Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds - www.RareSeeds.com offers over 1,200 varieties of non-GMO heirloom seeds.

-    Sustainable Seed Company - http://sustainableseedco.com - offering heirloom seeds, garden seeds, and organic heirloom seeds - non-hybrid vegetable, flower, and herb seeds.

-    Annie's Heirloom Seeds - http://www.anniesheirloomseeds.com - offers only heirloom varieties - no hybrids and no GMOs.

-    Eden Brothers - http://www.edenbrothers.com - heirloom seeds in packets or in bulk.

-    Territorial Seed Co. - www.territorialseed.com includes information on cultural requirements (description, watering and nutrient needs, harvesting, etc.).

-    Park Seed - www.parkseed.com features a plethora of seeds, plus related links.

-    Burpee - www.burpee.com

-    Seeds Trust - www.seedstrust.com specializes in specialty, native, heirloom and organic seeds.

-    Johnny's Selected Seeds - www.johnnyseeds.com offers many vegetables, flowers and herbs.

-    www.gardensalive.com specializes in "environmentally responsible products that work" and is dedicated to biological control of garden pests.

Spiced Zucchini Muffins and Other Tasty Recipes are a Great Way to Use Some of Your Garden’s Zucchini Harvest

I always plant zucchini in my veggie garden – most times the heirloom variety Black Beauty. This year, instead of the usual one or two plants, I have six.  I want to have a lot of zucchini this year so I can make plenty of zucchini relish, bread and butter zucchini pickles, and some amazing zucchini muffins, which I can store in the freezer and thaw them out as needed. Zucchini bread is great, but with just two of us in the family, muffins seem to work out a little better.

My hopes for lots of zucchini is happening – seriously! I have been picking two or three every day or two. I have made some zucchini relish and the muffins. We have also had grilled zucchini, sautéed zucchini, curried chicken with zucchini noodles, pan-fried zucchini patties, zucchini crust pizza, and more – all delicious!

Most of the time I start with a recipe that I have found online, but I never follow them, rather I use them for inspiration and modify them to include ingredients I use regularly or have on hand. I also use organic ingredients whenever possible. Even my husband loves these recipes. Here are some of them:

Shredded Zucchini

Ingredients

Finished Muffins

 Spiced Zucchini Muffins

(inspired by Chow.com)

Yield: 24 muffins

Ingredients:

3 Cups shredded and packed organic zucchini

2 Cups organic all-purpose flour

1 Cup organic whole wheat flour

1 ½ Teaspoons baking powder

1 ½ Teaspoons organic ground cinnamon

1 Teaspoon baking soda

½ Teaspoon nutmeg

½ Teaspoon sea salt

4 Large eggs (my homegrown were not quite large, so I used 5)

1 Cup packed organic dark Muscovado sugar (dark brown if you can’t find Muscovado)

1 Cup organic granulated sugar

1 Cup organic lemon/ginger coconut oil (plain if you can’t find the flavored)

2 Teaspoons organic vanilla extract

Instructions:

1.       Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Line muffin pans with paper liners (or coat the wells with unsalted butter).

2.       Place all of the dry ingredients into a medium bowl and whisk together until well blended.

3.       Place the remaining ingredients, minus the zucchini, into a medium bowl and whisk together until well combined. Fold in the zucchini until evenly mixed.

4.       Fill the muffin wells about 2/3 full. Bake for 25-30 minutes or when toothpick inserted into center comes out clean.

5.       Transfer the pans to racks to cool for 5 minutes before removing muffins from the pans. Remove muffins from the pans and cool completely

Double Recipe of Zucchini Relish.
The pint jars are purple glass.

Zucchini Relish

(inspired by Ball Blue Book)

Yield: about 4 half-pints

Ingredients:

2 Cups shredded zucchini, packed

1 Cup chopped onion (I use Walla Walla sweet from my garden)

½ Cup chopped sweet green pepper

½ Cup chopped sweet red pepper

2 Tablespoons canning salt

1 ¾ Cups organic granulated sugar

1 Tablespoon celery seed

1 Tablespoon mustard seed

2 Cups organic apple cider vinegar

Directions:

1.       Combine zucchini, onion, peppers; sprinkle with salt; cover with cold water. Let stand 2 hours. Rinse and drain thoroughly.

2.       Combine remaining ingredients in a large sauce pot. Bring to a boil. Add the vegetables; bring back to a boil and then simmer for 10 minutes.

3.       Pack the hot relish into hot jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Remove air bubbles. Adjust 2-piece caps. Process 15 minutes in a boiling-water canner.

Spiralized Zucchini Noodles

Some of the Chicken Curry Veggies

Chicken Curry with Zucchini Noodles

Chicken Curry with Zucchini Noodles

(inspired by Eat Local Grown)

Serves 4-6

Ingredients:

2 Teaspoons turmeric

1 Teaspoon Coriander

1 Teaspoon Cumin

1 Teaspoon sea salt

2 Teaspoons minced dried garlic

1 Teaspoon ground ginger

2 Tablespoons coconut oil

1 ½ Pounds skinless boneless chicken thighs, diced

1 Cup chicken broth

1 Can full fat coconut milk

3 medium carrots chopped

1 sweet red pepper diced

8 Ounces sliced mushrooms

1 Bunch Swiss chard

½ Pound sliced okra

4-5 medium zucchini, spiralized into noodles

Juice from ½ a lemon

Cilantro for garnish if desired

Instructions:

1.       Combine turmeric, coriander, cumin, salt, garlic and ginger in a small bowl. Set aside.

2.       Melt coconut oil in large skillet or pot over medium/high heat. Sauté chicken for 5-7 minutes, until no longer pink on the outside.

3.       Add spices, stir to combine, and cook for another minute. Add the chicken broth and coconut milk. Stir to combine.

4.       Add in carrots, red pepper, mushrooms, Swiss chard, and Okra. Bring to a boil and the turn down the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the zucchini noodles and cook for another 5 minutes.

5.       Squeeze in lemon juice, garnish with cilantro. Serve.

Pan-fried zucchini patties served
with grilled salmon and baked potato

Pan-Fried Zucchini Patties

Ingredients:

1 medium zucchini grated (squeeze out excess juice)

1 beaten egg

2 Tablespoons dry pancake mix (I currently use Kodiak Cakes)

¼ Cup grated cheese (I like sharp cheddar or pepper jack)

½ Cup coconut oil

Instructions:

Mix all ingredients together. Form into about 4 patties. Pan-fry until cooked through and golden brown on both sides.

Zucchini Crust Pizza

Zucchini Crust Pizza

Crust:

3 Cups grated zucchini (excess juice squeezed out)

2 eggs

½ Cup grated mozzarella

½ Cup grated cheddar

Instructions:

In a large bowl, beat eggs. Add all other ingredients and mix together. Spread out and pack/firm it together in a 9x13 greased pan (I grease with coconut oil). Bake at 400 degrees F for 15-20 minutes. Remove from the oven and add pizza toppings of choice. Put back in the 400 degree oven and bake for another 15-20 minutes.

Tips for Fire Resistant Landscaping

 

While driving around southeast Hesperia, I found
some examples of  fire-resistant landscaping,
here are two of them. This one shows a beautiful
design that includes grass and rock with a few shrubs.
The only thing that could be an issue is
the one palm tree planted right next to the home.
Another plus about this landscape is that it is completely
surrounded by a protective block wall fence
that can help to stop a fire at the property’s edge. 

This home is in a more open space. It shows clearing
around the property with low growing, lush plantings
near the house. It does have a juniper, but it is isolated
and well away from the home.

With the ongoing drought and huge potential for wildfires, I thought it might be a good time to offer some fire-resistant landscaping information. For those who live in areas where wildfires are a real possibility, it is good idea to maintain a defensible space around your homes and use fire-resistant plant materials in your landscaping.

The Colorado State University Extension offers the following great information to protect your home from wildfires: “Vegetative clearance around the house (defensible space) is a primary determinant of a home's ability to survive wildfire. Defensible space is, simply, room for firefighters to do their job. If grasses, brush, trees and other common fuels are removed, reduced, or modified to lessen a fire's intensity and keep it away from the home, chances increase that the structure will survive. It is a little-known fact that in the absence of a defensible space, firefighters will often bypass a house, choosing to make their stand at a home where their safety is more assured and the chance to successfully protect the structure is greater.”

Consider the following factors, courtesy of the CSU extension, when planning, designing and planting a “Fire Wise” landscape within your home's defensible space:

-        Landscape according to the recommended defensible-space zones. That is, the plants near your home should be more widely spaced and lower growing than those farther away.

-        Do not plant in large masses. Instead, plant in small, irregular clusters or islands.

-        Use decorative rock, gravel and stepping stone pathways to break up the continuity of the vegetation and fuels.

-        Incorporate a diversity of plant types and species in your landscape. Not only will this be visually satisfying, but also it should help keep pests and diseases from causing problems within the whole landscape.

-        In the event of drought and water rationing, prioritize plants to be saved. Provide available supplemental water to plants closest to your house.

-        Use mulches to conserve moisture and reduce weed growth. Mulch can be organic or inorganic. Do not use pine bark, thick layers of pine needles or other mulches that readily carry fire.

Don’t forget about maintenance
A landscape is a dynamic system that constantly grows and changes. Plants considered fire resistant and which have low fuel volumes can lose these characteristics over time. Your landscape, and the plants in it, must be maintained to retain their “Fire Wise” properties.

-        Be aware of the growth habits of the plants within your landscape and of the changes that occur throughout the seasons.

-        Remove annuals and perennials after they have gone to seed or when the stems become dry.

-        Rake up leaves and other litter as it builds up throughout the season.

-        Mow or trim grasses to a low height within your defensible space. This is particularly important as grasses become dry.

-        Remove plant parts damaged by snow, wind, frost or other agents.

-        Timely pruning is critical. Pruning not only reduces fuel volumes but also maintains healthier plants by producing more vigorous, succulent growth.

Characteristics of fire-resistant plants

• Store water in leaves or stems

• Produce very little dead or fine material

• Possess extensive, deep root systems for controlling erosion

• Maintain high moisture content with limited watering

• Grow slowly and need little maintenance

• Are low growing in form

• Contain low levels of volatile oils or resins

• Have an open, loose branching habit with a low volume of total vegetation

The moisture content of plants is an important consideration because high levels of plant moisture can lower fire risk and act as a heat sink, reducing the intensity and spread of fire.

Some California native fire-resistant landscape plants suitable for the High Desert and many surrounding areas include: 
Western Redbud, Monkeyflower, Sage, Common Yarrow, California Sycamore, Toyon, California Fuchsia, Penstemon, California Poppy, and Flannel Bush.

Succulents such as Sedum or Ice Plant are also good choices for fire-resistant groundcovers on banks and hillsides.

Plants to avoid include Acacias, Eucalyptus, Cypress, Fir, Juniper, Pines and Chamise.

Visit following websites for lists of California-friendly fire-resistant plants and other valuable information for creating and maintaining a defensible space:

http://www.bewaterwise.com/fire.html

http://ucanr.edu/sites/safelandscapes/files/79452.pdf

http://www.lassenfiresafecouncil.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Lassen-Fire-Safe-Council-NECal-LandscapePlantGuide.pdf

http://www.firescape.us/recommendedplantlist.pdf

http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/natres/06303.html

The Tomato Hornworms Have Arrived

 

It is hard to tell in a photo,
but this hornworm is only about an inch long.
They can grow to be around 5 inches.

I discovered the first of this year’s tomato hornworms in my garden a couple of weeks ago. I found the first one quite by accident, which isn’t the way I normally find them. Usually I notice the missing leaves and sometimes the tell-tale caterpillar poo, which leads to a search to find the hungry invaders. This time I was eye-to-eye with the green creature. It had not yet done much in the way of damaging the plant as it was less than an inch long – small compared to what they can be. I looked around and found a second one on the same plant. I have been scouting for them ever since – on all 14 tomato plants – and so far so good.

Hornworms also can be a problem for tomato relatives like eggplant, peppers and potatoes, so it is a good idea to check them as well.

It can take a while to find them when I start looking for the nasty green worms because they blend in perfectly with the stems and foliage. Each year I have to retrain my eyes to spot them quickly. Hornworms have ravenous appetites and eat so much so quickly that they grow really fast. If I had taken a couple days longer to detect them, they could have easily been the size of a finger, and perhaps devoured much of the plant they were munching on.

How do you recognize a tomato hornworm? How do you manage them?

Here's a little information from the UC Davis website http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/PESTS/hornworm.html

"Tomato hornworms of all sizes have a distinctive horn at the rear end. If you find them early on they are small, but mature caterpillars are very large - up to 4 inches long. Tomato hornworms are likely to be the largest caterpillars you will see in the vegetable garden. Their striping pattern makes them hard to spot despite their size. Large, black droppings on the ground beneath tomato plants or on the leaves below where they are feeding usually indicate the presence of hornworms. The adult moths that are responsible for these worms have a wingspan up to five inches.

Damage by hornworm larvae (the worm/caterpillar) is usually most common in midsummer, but there may also be a small population peak in the late summer. Infestations tend to be more severe in warm inland areas such as the High Desert. The larval form is the only stage that causes damage. The eggs are laid singly on leaves. The larvae feed and grow, and then burrow into the soil to pupate. The adult/moth develops over the winter and emerges and the cycle continues. Entire leaves and small stems may be consumed by the larvae. Large pieces from green or ripe fruit may also be chewed.

To manage hornworms, handpick or snip hornworms with shears. Hornworm eggs can be attacked by Trichogramma and the larvae of Hyposoter exigua - two types of parasitic wasps - which can be purchased through various catalogs and released into the garden. There are also several general predators such as praying mantids to help keep populations under control. Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) or Spinosad are both effective against smaller larvae. Discing or rototilling the soil after harvest destroys the pupae and helps prevent adults from developing."

I tend to handpick the hornworms from the plants, and then feed them to my chickens. It is important to keep looking and not assume there are only one or two. It is best to look for them early in the morning, because they tend to hide out during the heat of the day. Look along the stems and under the leaves, especially near the ends of the branches and near where damage has been found. If you notice the droppings, look above that area. Tomato hornworms used to scare me so I would snip them with shears, but the disgusting green goo they leave behind is not very appealing. I eventually learned to put on a pair of gardening gloves and simply pick the worms off the plant.

Chickens enjoy feasting on tomato hornworms, so if you happen to have chickens, it's a great way to dispose of the worms once you have removed them from your plants. If you notice the eggs or pupa (cocoon), destroy them before they develop into the dreaded hornworm.

Tomato Leaf Roll

Several days ago, on June 12, we experienced a cloudburst that dumped well over an inch of rain in a short amount of time. After sharing a few photos with friends on Facebook, many that live in the same basic area commented back that they had only received a few sprinkles and were amazed by the amount of rain shown in my photos. This is kind of normal for the High Desert – a downpour in an isolated location and little to no rain in other near-by areas. Yay, it was my turn for some free water!

Although almost all of the runoff was diverted from my veggie garden area, parts of the area were watered a little more than needed. The garden area held up remarkably well, but one of my heirloom tomato plants (Black from Tula) ended up with an environment disorder – tomato leaf roll.

The symptoms of tomato leaf roll are firm and leathery leaves; and the lower leaves roll upward. This occurs in wet spring conditions, which is usually not a huge problem here in the desert.

There is no need to worry about it though, as the symptoms will disappear when the temperatures get warmer (they have), and the soil dries out (working on that). Normal growth will resume and future fruits will not be damaged.

For more information about other tomato disorders, diseases, and pests, visit ipm.ucdavis.edu.

Containerized Canna Adds a Tropical Effect to Patios and Pool Areas

A couple years ago when I was adding furniture and new containerized plants to my front patio, I decided to buy a Canna for its bold colors and tropical effect. I had not purchased one before because the High Desert is not in the proper zone according to the Sunset Western Garden Book. Some other research revealed that it would grow in USDA zones 8-11, which would work since this area is in USDA zone 8b. Canna certainly does not belong in a drought-tolerant landscape, but in containers where water use can be limited, or near ponds and pools, it is a beautiful and dramatic addition.

Cannas bold effects come from its huge leaves and striking flowers that are available in many different colors depending on the specific variety. The one I have right now is called ‘Tropicana’ and it features brightly colored variegated leaves with hot orange blooms. It flowers intermittently early summer through fall, but the foliage is so pretty that I enjoy it whether it has flowers or not. A couple of other varieties I would like to get include “Black Knight’ with blackish bronze foliage and deep red flowers, and ‘Nirvana’ which has white and green striped leaves and butter-yellow flowers. There are many varieties available in nurseries or through catalogs and online. 

 Cannas prefer full sun, plenty of heat, and just about any type of soil, but because of the large leaves they need to be somewhat protected from the wind. They are heavy feeders, so they need regular fertilizing and plenty of moisture. Cannas can benefit from a layer of mulch to help the soil retain moisture. Some varieties get quite tall, so staking them might be necessary. Removing faded flowers encourages the plant to produce more blooms. If Cannas get a little ratty looking during the summer, they can recover quickly by cutting them back to the ground and adding fertilizer/compost and water. 

After the fall frost blackens the leaves, the stems should be cut back to ground level and then covered with a heavy layer of mulch. I usually cut back my containerized plant and place it in the garage for the winter, watering occasionally to keep it from drying out. It has grown quite a bit over the past two years so this fall I will pull it out of the container and divide the bulbs, which means next year I should have three or four containers of this beautiful Canna. 

Watch Out for Squash Bugs

For whatever reason, this year seems to be the year for a variety of garden pests, among them, an encounter with squash bugs – so far only one, but I will need to keep an eye out for more. A couple of years ago a friend from work had a huge infestation of them, and she was bothered with them again last year. I had been lucky in that I had never had them in my garden until last year, where I found a few adults, but no eggs or nymphs – I kept watching closely for evidence of these plant-damaging invaders and squashed (no pun intended) them whenever one made an appearance.

According to the website - www.ipm.ucdavis.edu – squash bugs (Anasa tristis) are a common vegetable-garden pest. They feed on the plant by piercing the leaves and sucking the plant's sap, which results in wilting and potential death of the plant. They target plants in the curcurbit family – pumpkins, squash (summer and winter varieties), melon and cucumbers.

When the adults and nymphs suck the plant juices/sap, the leaves lose nutrients and water and become speckled, later turning yellow to brown. Under heavy feeding, plants begin to wilt, and the point of attack becomes black and brittle. Squash bugs may also feed on young fruits, causing scarring and death.

The adult and juvenile (nymphs) squash bugs can be found near the crown of the plant, underneath leaves, or hidden in the soil around the plants. When disturbed they move rather quickly. I have found that they tend to climb up on to the leaves when I am watering the plants to escape the deluge. This makes it easy to spot the adults and quickly dispose of them.

Unmated squash bugs find shelter in the fall under dead leaves, rocks, wood, and other garden debris to survive the winter months. In the spring, they fly from their protective habitat to nearby cucurbits where they feed, mate, and lay eggs.

Starting in the spring, to manage or help minimize the presence of squash bugs, look for squash bugs that may be hidden under debris, near buildings, and in perennial plants in or near the garden. Inspect young plants daily for signs of egg masses, mating adults, or wilting. Place wooden boards throughout the garden and check under them every morning, and then destroy any squash bugs found.

The UC Davis website says the best method for control is prevention through sanitation. Old cucurbit plants should be removed after harvesting is complete. Keep the garden free from debris that can provide overwintering sites for squash bugs. At the end of the gardening season, compost all vegetation or thoroughly till it under. Handpick or vacuum any bugs found under wooden boards. During the growing season, pick off and destroy egg masses as soon as you see them. Use protective covers such as plant cages or row covers in gardens where squash bugs have been a problem in the past and remove the covers at bloom to allow for pollination.

The UC Davis website also states that squash bugs are difficult to kill using insecticides because egg masses, nymphs, and bugs are often hidden and are difficult to reach with sprays. Several insecticides are available that are less toxic to the environment, which include products such as Neem oil, horticultural oil, and canola oil. These soaps and oils are most effective on the smallest nymphs, but good penetration throughout the plant's canopy is essential so that nymphs under the leaves and deep within plants will be covered. Other more toxic pesticides are also registered for use on squash bugs; however, these materials should be used with caution because of negative impacts on bees and beneficial insects such as predators and parasites that help to keep other pest insects and mites in check. In addition, they are not likely to give better control than handpicking combined with softer chemicals.

So far, I have had luck hand picking squash bugs as I find them since I do not seem to have and overwhelming population of them. My friend has had some luck controlling squash bugs with "Captain Jacks Deadbug Brew Flower and Vegetable Garden Dust," which is approved for organic gardening. There is a warning on the label, so care should be taken with this and all pesticides to ensure that damage does not happen to non-target organisms. It is the law to always follow the instructions on the label.

Protect Yourself and Your Plants During the Summer Heat

The heat is on here in the High Desert. During these hot summer months, I try to get out and do my gardening chores early in the morning to avoid the intense heat of the day. Since it is easy to find yourself out in the yard longer than intended, it is a good idea to apply a good sunscreen, and wear a hat and light-colored loose-fitting clothes to help prevent sunburn. And, don’t forget to stay hydrated by drinking plenty of fluids – my preferences are water, unsweetened ice tea or coconut water.

Heat and sunlight not only affect gardeners, they also have an effect on plants.

Leaves can become sunburned and begin to get large yellow patches that turn gray or brown in the center. If plants showing signs of sunburn are in pots or containers, move them to areas where there is more afternoon shade. If the plant(s) are planted in the ground, it may be necessary to erect some form of shade cloth protection on the south and west sides of the plant. If certain plants become too stressed in the summer, it might be a good idea to consider moving the plant to a more suitable location in the fall or early spring, or add protective, shade-giving plants to the existing landscape.

Sunscald on trunks can lead to disease problems and even death. This most often happens on young trees that have not yet developed a true bark. To help prevent sunscald, apply a coat of white interior latex paint that has been mixed with water to make a half paint- half water mixture – sunscreen for plants. There are also fabrics available at nurseries and garden centers designed to wrap around a tree trunk to help prevent injuries, including those caused from too much sun.

Some plants may show signs of drought stress, which appears as yellowing and browning leaves, but not in patches like sunburn. Plants will also begin to wilt. Make sure that trees are getting deep watered to a depth of three feet, shrubs to two feet, and ground covers to one foot. It is best to deep water less often than to frequently water just the surface. Also take note that most of a plant’s water-absorbing roots are located around its dripline (edge of its canopy), so make sure to apply most of the water in this area rather than around the trunk or stem. Once the soil has dried to a depth of two to several inches, apply more water.

Some plants prefer dry summers and are prone to rot problems if given too much water in the spring. Many of these plants are our California native species, which are adapted to winter rainfall and dry summers. If such a plant is showing signs of wilting, and it has been watered regularly throughout the summer, check to see if the soil is moist. If it is moist, discontinue watering until cooler weather comes along and see if it begins to improve. These types of plants can be susceptible to root rot fungi that become damaging when conditions become warm and moist. Wilt symptoms appear because the rotting roots can not longer take up the necessary water. Allowing the soil to dry out a bit can help promote new roots to grow and the plant to recover.

So remember that plants can be affected by the summer heat just as we are. Sunburn and dehydration can be prevented if care is taken to make sure that adequate shade, sunscreen and water are used. Since the amount of water we use is an issue here in the desert, it is a good idea to consider the use of native and desert adaptive landscape plants that don’t require lots of summer irrigation.